Enameling Processes
Enameling is a decorative and colorful process that can enhance and offer brilliant colors in jewelry and art objects. A technique that was used throughout hundreds of years of history, the earliest known jewelry discovered with enameling was found in Cyprus around 1300 BCE. Six gold rings were found in a tomb in Kouklia that were decorated with a vitreous substance layered over the gold.
We thought you might enjoy learning about a few of the most popular types of enameling techniques and their meanings. We have several items in our inventory that exemplify these vastly different processes and we invite you to come in to see them in person or you can also browse our inventory for enameled jewelry here. Enjoy!
Enamel
The word enamel is a German term from the world ‘smelzan’ which then became ‘esmail’ in French. Traditional enamel is a process where a variety of metals, including gold, silver, and copper have brilliantly colored glass fused to their surfaces. A dry enamel powder is sifted onto the top of the metal with a brush and a binder. The entire piece is then heated in a kiln where the enamel melts. The difference of enameling vs. Meenakari or Guilloché is that the metal underneath is smooth, and uninterrupted. The top of each enamel section is polished multiple times to achieve this effect which is a long and arduous process.
Meenakari
Developed in 247 BCE, Meenakari is an ancient Persian enameling process. This style of enameling was introduced to India in the 16th century. The process is a painstaking series of steps that involve etching a design into the substrate of fine metal, specifically silver and gold. Often inspired by botanical and themes in nature, the etched areas of the design are filled with brilliantly colored powdered minerals that are fused to the surface in a furnace. The enamel is translucent and you can see the design cut into the metal underneath. Done by master artisans this form of enameling will take your breath away. The city of Jaipur, India i is the primary location in the world known for Meenakari, which is used to adorn their jewelry and fine objects of art.
Guilloché
Guilloché enamel is a similar process where the substrate metal of fine silver or gold is ‘turned’ on an ornamental lathe. Engraved into the metal by a rose cutting machine, these designs are incised into the metal. Vitreous enamel layers are then fused over the undulating engraved details, creating a shimmering, translucent effect. This process was used often during Victorian and Art Deco periods, and could be found on pendants, Fabergé eggs, and functional objects like watches and pillboxes.
Cloisonné
China first developed the art of Cloisonné, during the Yuan and Ming dynasties. It predates the use of traditional enamel to 4,000 BCE. Hair thin wires were fashioned into design forms and each discreet section then filled with an enamel paste. The kiln used for this process is about 800 degrees and the melt creates a smooth glossy surface. Cloisonné also found in Japan, and is called the ‘seven treasure ware’. It requires multiple firings to fill the areas completely and reach the edges of the strips of metal. The predominantly red enamels are referred to as champlevé, (which differs from cloisonné) and is a ‘raised field’ technique where the enamel is carved or cast directly into a thick metal.
Special Care of your enamel pieces
Enamel jewelry is more fragile than most. It is suggested that you do not wear your enameled jewelry in water, or while you are working with your hands. Vintage and contemporary enamel jewelry can be repaired but rings cannot be resized. You can polish the surface with a very soft cloth, but nothing abrasive.These occasional pieces can be worn for that special event but then should be carefully tucked away in their own box or soft bag for the next time you go out!